I woke this morning to the sweet smell of scrambled eggs and my personal pot of hot milk coffee. I thought maybe I might be back in the States until I heard the 17 year-old servant tapping on my door,
'Madame, your breakfast is ready.' The Chandralayam caters to your every need including a western breakfast served gardenside at the ungodly hour of 7 a.m. Grateful for the sunrise meal, I thanked the owner and his servant a thousand times then pushed off for Mangalore under sunny skies.
There's only two noteworthy climbs in and out of Kannur, with the rest of the day smooth surface and refreshing flats. Although I rejoined the main highway 17 after Kannur, it felt more like a secondary road with a rural setting and slim traffic.
After about 40 clicks I reached a milestone, officially moving from Kerala State to Karnataka. There's no official border crossing, just a state tax station for trucks and dilapidated sign welcoming north bound travelers to Karnataka. More obvious, however, was the re-emergence of wandering cows and friendly Hindu smiles.
I busted a few pimpled face teenage boys who passed me on a motorbike at a slow speed. I'd seen this a few times over the past week where trucks or motorbikes rush to pass me then slow down and discreetly snap my photo with their mobile phones. These two kids actually stopped in front of me and while the driver pretended to be working on a failed engine, the other is snapping my picture with his phone. With a big smile I stopped and offered up a still pose. They were so embarrassed but politely thanked me before they sped off.
In just over 3.5 hours I arrived in Mangalore, a progressive city sprawled over 3 hills and bordered by the coast. I was pleased with the short day and even more pleased with the city. Having more energy than usual, I examined four hotels and was delighted to find the stylish (almost bordering on swank) Hotel Manorama for the stately sum (NOT) of $6.00/night! It rocks.
I read a few days ago that Mangaloreans are particularly famous for their food. I positively confirmed this fact all afternoon. First there's the best banana leaf Thalis for lunch at Janatha Deluxe; and the understated but sweet fresh papaya fruit salad at the road side stahl on KS Rao Rd., just past the imposing Milagres church the Hotel Moti Mohal has a bakery shop with mouth-watering mocha biscuits which go particulaly well with a genuine Italian cappuccino from the Cafe Corner on Balmatta St. After a brief but necessary nap, this was all followed up by one of the tastiest veg dinners at Hotel Naivedyam where the chef did something really interesting with red curry, cottage cheese and 7 vegetables. It's safe to say that any health concerns are resolved and I'm no longer running on a caloric deficit. Yes, indeed, I think Mangalore is calling me to stay for just one more day of digestion.
Ride Strong!
To help me reach my goal and support a worthy cause, tax deductible donations can be made to the Challenged Athletes Foundaton at
http://raceforareason.kintera.org/julie For a trip of a lifetime!
www.ridestongbiketours.com 
