Sometimes the best laid plan is no plan at all. It was a sunny Saturday morning and I must have slept through my Timex alarm thereby missing my scheduled rendezvous with the Canada boys. By the time I untangled myself from the mosquito netting, Canada had hit highway 47 and I was left to move north on my own. Having seen a laid-back India the day before, I decided to spend the extra effort getting lost on small tertiary roads non-existent on my maps.
Following the natural markers of the sun in the east and Lakshadweep Sea to the west, I followed the north canal road to the outskirts of Allepey before coming to an abrupt stop by a passing train. This gave me ample time to survey all the truck and rickshaw drivers in the queue for directions to a small road to Cochin. Unanimously they pointed me back to the direction I had come and, in disbelief, I spun around my load and trudged back to the north canal. It took a few rounds of dead ends and turn-arounds but ultimately I discovered the dream road to Cochin. I'm sorry I can't offer up a more useful guide to future cyclists of South India, but if you just ask the man at the banana stand at the corner of YMCA and N. Canal Rd., he'll point you down the right direction and give you a few bananas for the road.
For the next 60 kays I spun like it was Sunday on a lazy single lane paved road, through quiet fishing villages and over backwater bridges. Gazing left, colorful fishing boats lined the entirety of the Malabar Coast while my right view saw inlets and endless cocunut groves. Being Saturday, the village kids were out doing what Indian kids do: playing cricket, hanging out or pushing tires with a stick. When word spread, I was greeted in successive towns with a long line-up of high fiving hands.
It was the first day of cycling India in a truly traffic-free zone, so I slowed my legs to a crawl soaking in the tranquility of Kerala. The further north I moved, the Christianity of South India really popped out with elaborate Catholic churches, seminary schools and nuns moving about. I'm sure out of the 23 million Christians in India, at least 70% are concentrated here.
On several occassions during this trip, I've vascillated on the viability of a future Ride Strong Bike cycling tour to India. As I entered Fort Cochin from the desireable perspective of the Beach Rd. I started preparing a tour itinerary in earnest. Surrounded by the Arabian Sea and backwaters of Kerala, Fort Cochin (or simply Kochi), is a stunning and slow residential town preserving the best of its multicultural past. Beginning with Vasco de Gama's arrival in late 1490's, Cochin has seen its spice trade successively ruled by the Portuguese, Dutch and British. The architecture of the palaces, churches and museums all reflect this varied past giving Fort Cochin a unique European feel. Add to this Michelin quality restaurants and classy boutique hotels and Fort Cochin is good for at least two days of a Ride Strong tour stop.
I was greeted at Fort Cochin's entrance by the owner of a really posh hotel. Taking one look at my greasy hands, he offered up a home stay at Henri's Anchorage. I followed his scooter for the short 1 km ride where I had the pleasure of meeting Henri, his lovely wife and sweet 15 year old daughter. It's another special spot for a short stay off the main sqaure just in front of the beautiful Santa Cruz Basilica.
Walking off my incredible lunch at Kashi Coffee Cafe, I ran into the Canada boys who arrived via N47. We all spent the remainder of the evening lounging under big trees and consuming refreshements before refueling one more time on the fresh catch BBQ.
So who's in for an India tour February 2008?
Ride Strong!
