Madurai to Kovilpatti (94 km) to Tirunenveli (55 km) February 1 & 2, 2007
Road conditions:  Superb A++ and pancake flat. Elapsed Time: 4:00 and 2:30 Fuel:  The usual mix of Pongal (another rice variation for breakfast with spicey sauces), Iddly and bananas. Weather:  32-33 C (in other words, HOT).

From Madurai it's a straight shot on the NH 7 down the center of South Central India to Kanyakumari (the most southern tip of India).  Given the rising temperatures and paucity of shade, we decided to break the jaunt into three manageable days.  From Madurai to Kovilpatti, the ride was just a dream.  Nothing memorable for scenery but light traffic and freshly paved sealed roads, thanks to a highly impressive 4-laning project occurring throughout the main arterial roads (note:  if anyone is interested in this ride I recommend it be done before the 4-laning is complete in 2008).

With good visibility, I spent most of the first day perfecting my nearly fool-prrof technique for preventing oncoming bus drivers from overtaking in my lane.  Among other cavalier Indian driving habits that intrude my daily ride, the one bugging me the most is when I'm spinning on a smooth surface down an otherwise obstacle free road and out of no where two buses are barreling down my throat filling both lanes.  Now, don't get me wrong.  As much as I love India, I don't have a twisted desire to trade my life for a burial in the Ganges River.  But, I've learned if I ride in the middle of my lane and maintain a firm position during an attempted oncoming pass, I can usually stop the driver from pulling out.  If this doesn't work, in the split seconds I have left, I sit up straight riding no hands and start twirling my arms backwards in windmill fashion.  Almost always, the bus driver recognizes that I'm far crazier than him and will pull in between the other vehicles assuming his own lane.  I say this almost always works because just as I was feeling confident in my new found method, a colorfully painted bus from Diva Travels took me head on -- the last thing I saw before bunny hopping off the side of the raised asphalt into the dirt was a temple of marigold flowers swinging from the buses rearview mirror.

On the brighter side, I think I've finally found a big name product sponsor for this trip.  Up until this point I've been negligent in not mentioning my incredible Nokia E61 blackberry like multimedia device compliments of Nokia via their relationship with Rob.  Then there's the Timex Ironman watch I could not live without.  It not only clocks each day's journey but also serves as a useful indicator of how burned my arms are getting.  Thanks again to Rob.  Then there's my baby-doll powder blue T-shirt from B&L.  I'm the envy of every teen in India.  Thanks Scot and Dano for re-tooling my tires and tubes. 

But today, well, today I happened upon the Tamil Nadu representatives of Coca-Cola who also own Fanta (my refueling drink of choice).  They took a liking to my way of travel and would not let me go.  They asked several questions wondering what kept me going.  Being brighter than the average cyclist they come across, I told them it was the Fanta, of course.  They really wanted to do something for me and I would not accept their offer of a ride, so they pulled out a 2 litre bottle of Fanta and presented it to me in one of those formal type deal ceremonies -- you know the type, simultaneously shaking my hand while handing me a two litre bottle of Fanta in front of the camera.  Thanks Coca-Cola!

Arriving in Kovilpatti was particularly refreshing (even in the 90+ heat).  We new nothing about this nothing town that doesn't even rate for a guide book mention.  But, I've discovered a few things about Indian towns not on tourist maps; namely, they're usually far cleaner, there are no beggars, the local food is outstanding and guesthouse rooms are a bargain at $3/night.  After a few bucket showers and tending to our clothes, we set out for an egg curry dinner and night on the town (which, given the non-existent forms of other entertainment, amounted to walking around the incredible farmer's market).

The short ride to Tirunenveli was no different than the day before: excellent roads, light traffic and, perhaps, a notch up on visual delights.   We 've checked into a high class Indian joint ($10/night) complete with towels and small veranda for, after I hit 'send', an afternoon snooze.

Ride Strong! 
Julie (Tirunenveli, India)

 

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