Janaury 25 - Tailwinds to Pondi 100 km
Despite the small
morning incident where Hercules (Marcus' new bike) flattened a
cute black dog on our way to see the Five Rathas Temple, Indian
Karma ruled supreme today. Waking up early paid off in
Rupees at the Temple. The usual guards and bus loads of pilgrims must
have still been asleep and we were able to access the local road to
witness in solitude the Five Rathas in the eastern morning light.
Before checking out, we found a cute roof-top 'German Bakery'
specializing in American breakfasts' served by an eager Nepalese
waiter. We both selected the high protein, high
carbohydrate meals -- eggs, toast and banana porridge for good
measure. Sufficient fuel for the day's ride.
Weaving
our way out of Mama, the din of the morning market reigned loud. But,
just over the bridge and across the main town, rural India unfolded as
we spun by; postcard perfect rice paddies being tended by women in
their colorful saris with lily ponds scattered throughout. We saw
large estuaries and small bays and intermittent glimpses of the Indian
Ocean. Tree tunnels appeared when the sun came out but perfect
clouds kept the ride relatively cool (about 80 degrees). While
there were occassional cars and the usual buses, the traffic was
dominated by ox-driven carts and slumbering men. Every 5-10 kays
we found villages of palm-frond made homes. Almost all of these
villages had been ravaged by the Tsunami in 2004 and signs still
displayed the donors and organizers of each rehabilitation effort.
The country people wore a country friendliness uncharacterisic of those
in cities. We became instant stars with the uniformed school
children and the boys on their bikes. Fans popped out of either
side of the road, bellowing their 'helloooo's' politely followed by
their 'how are you's?' Most idolized California's Governor as
somewhat of a rock star while all spoke flawless English (albeit
somewhat limited). Food stalls with cold Fanta and bottled water
were as frequent as you'd want them. In fact, in this stretch of
land, there's really no need to carry fuel or a bottle.
The
roads were Tour de France quality; not a bump, not a pot-hole,
virtually blemish free. The smooth flat route mixed with the
consistent north-south tailwind made the 100 kays an entirely
effortless and glorious spin all the way to Pondicherry (or 'Pondi' as
everyone says), population 220,000.
Although I never asked, I can say with absolute certainty, the Raj
Lodge on Rangapillali Street, Pondicherry, India has no affiliation
with the 5-star Raj Hotels. But, for 200 Rs/night, it had a large
room on a breezy floor, 5 beds, a cold and very welcome shower
thoughtfully located adjacent to the squat toilet. Besides all
that, it was one of the only available rooms in town. As if India
didn't already have enough people, Pondi is swarming with too many
westerners who've spent too long in one of the many local
ashrams. You can spot them a mile away, roaming aimlessly with an
even more aimless blank stare.
A quick shower and walk about this former French town, we meditated a
few moments at the main attraction in town -- the Sri Aurobindo
Ashram. A large facility located off center of town, devotees of
the philosophy come from around the world to study, meditate and
apparently stay in Pondi.
Albeit a bit run down, the French colonial mansions, wide boulevards
and seaside promenades definitely gives one reason to pause in Pondi
for at least one night. More rice and masala and then
off to bed!
